Chef Orlando Ortega

‘I have fulfilled my dreams, but I still want to keep dreaming’

He began his career as a waiter at the legendary El Bulli. Today, he celebrates both his first Repsol Sun award and the twentieth anniversary of his restaurant, Lilium. He describes himself as an all-round restaurateur and a happy man.

How did the current concept of Lilium come about?

Lilium, as it exists today, was never part of a grand plan. We’ve grown organically. I started, however I could, with a gastropub in Tías. The concept grew naturally, guided by the space itself. But I always kept my feet on the ground, aware that, above all else, a business must be profitable. From Tías, we moved to my hometown of Arrecife for five years before the opportunity arose in 2006 to move into our current home at Marina Lanzarote.

Back in Tías, I had chefs working with me, but I always oversaw the kitchen myself. My wife, Sandra Guadalupe, joined the business in 2010, which finally allowed me to focus entirely on the cooking — my true passion. That said, I’m an all-rounder, and I’m happy in any role.

What has the Sol Repsol meant to you?

Like the ultimate pat on the back! It’s brought recognition and reassurance that we’re doing things right. It validates the concept and gives me more confidence in the day-to-day and to try new things. Thanks to this award, we’ll reach a wider clientele who’ll come to us with a greater sense of trust. As for the responsibility it carries, I couldn’t possibly demand more of myself than I already do. But right now, I couldn’t be happier.

‘I couldn’t possibly demand more of myself than I already do—but right now, I couldn’t be happier’

How would you define the cooking at Lilium today?

It is a new Canarian cuisine, elegant, creative, and bold in its use of fusion. Looking back, especially in those early years in Arrecife, we were pretty pioneering for our time. In many ways, though, the restaurant today is exactly as I had envisioned.

What role does Lanzarote play in your dishes?

I’ve learnt along the way that visitors to Lanzarote want to find the island reflected on their plate. That is our core clientele: the traveller who wants to understand the place they’re visiting. For me, it’s the most natural approach as this is the territory I know, and it reflects how we’ve grown. Km 0 means embracing produce from the Canary Islands, although I’ll never pass up the chance to harmonise those local ingredients with flavours from elsewhere.

Where do you want to take your cooking next?

Honestly, I don’t know where it will lead me. I believe in growing naturally and organically. I’m genuinely happy doing what I do; I take pleasure in every new dish, every small improvement to the restaurant, even the little things like a new set of crockery. So, one dish at a time, I have fulfilled all my dreams, but I still want to keep dreaming.

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