The utility jacket. Set to become one of autumn’s key pieces, it draws on traditional workwear, bringing back patch pockets, visible buttons, high collars and structured sleeves in more refined cuts. Versions range from cropped designs to jackets in tweed, pastel shades and embroidered finishes. JCPajares, Claro Couture and Teresa Helbig sent their versions down the catwalk at Madrid Fashion Week.
Sharp tailoring becomes a wardrobe staple. Strong shoulders, pronounced shoulder pads and fitted waists give the suit a fresh makeover for both women and men. Precise tailoring sits alongside draping, texture and deep tones. Adolfo Domínguez showed experimental pieces with broad shoulders, adjustable waists, graphic motifs and prints at 080 Barcelona.
Outerwear with character. Loewe leads the way this autumn with generous proportions and attention-grabbing fabrics. Long, structured coats are joined by ponchos, oversized bomber jackets and technical-looking anoraks. Wool, nappa leather, fur and shearling provide texture, while leather takes on sculptural forms. Neutral shades are punctuated by red, orange and yellow.
Aubergine and contrasting textures. From deep purple to shades verging on burgundy, aubergine is the colour of the season, joined by maroon, cognac and deep green in collections from labels such as The Label Edition. Doblas and Acromatyx play with contrast, setting wool and corduroy against glossy satin, faux leather and metallic finishes.
Party, party! With New Year’s Eve approaching, sheer fabrics, sequins, Lurex and metallic shades reclaim their place in eveningwear. In Madrid, they feature in collections by Johanna Ortiz, Pedro del Hierro, Isabel Sanchís and Claro Couture, which pairs them with velvet. Lola Casademunt adds sequins and distinctly 1980s shoulder pads. Gold takes centre stage in dresses and ensembles by Ferragamo, Akris and Emilia Wickstead, while Valentino embraces excess and Chanel plays with sheer tweed and Lurex skirts. For men, tailoring softens. Fluid velvet brings texture to evening suits at Armani, Canali and Amiri, while Dolce & Gabbana champions the dark tuxedo with a cummerbund.
Goodbye, XXL! The oversized look is deflating as silhouettes tighten. Prada, Gucci and Saint Laurent bring back jackets and coats with more defined lines, while trousers shed volume without sacrificing comfort. Colour returns too, with reds, greens, yellows and purples brightening the season.
Bold accessories. Bags grow larger and finishes more tactile, with Loewe’s Amazona and Flamenco designs leading the way. Slim, streamlined trainers feature at Chloé, Jacquemus and Gucci. Scarves and wraps drape across the shoulders, while statement brooches make a striking return.
